In jewelry, not all metals are created equal.
Understanding the difference between materials like gold vermeil, gold plated,
or brass allows you to make conscious decisions and truly value what you wear.

This guide is designed to help you recognize quality, understand processes, and choose pieces that will accompany you for years.

While both terms may sound similar, the difference is fundamental in both quality and durability:

Gold vermeil is a regulated designation in fine jewelry that guarantees a specific standard of quality and craftsmanship. Unlike unregulated terms, vermeil requires a base of solid sterling silver 925 or higher—at MILASAI, we use 930 sterling silver, which contains 93% pure silver and offers even greater luminosity and nobility than the standard 925. The gold plating must be high-purity gold; we exclusively use 24K, the purest and most radiant gold available, which maintains its warm, rich color without the pale appearance of lower-karat alloys. The thickness of the gold layer is also regulated: true vermeil requires a minimum of 2.5 microns, and we apply between 2.5 and 4 microns to ensure lasting durability and brilliance. This combination of noble materials results in jewelry with genuine intrinsic value—pieces that don't oxidize or stain your skin, that are naturally hypoallergenic and gentle on sensitive skin, and that can accompany you for years with basic care. Should the gold layer soften over time, vermeil pieces can be professionally re-plated to restore their original shine, and because they're made entirely of precious metals, they're infinitely recyclable without loss of quality.

The term "gold plated" is notably unregulated in the jewelry industry, which means it can apply to virtually any metal with a gold layer, regardless of the base material's quality, the gold's purity, or the plating's thickness. The base metal is highly variable and often consists of brass (a copper and zinc alloy), copper, steel, or other economical alloys chosen primarily for cost-effectiveness rather than longevity or skin compatibility. The gold used for plating can range from 9K to 18K, containing varying amounts of alloy metals that affect both color and durability. Most significantly, the thickness of the gold layer in plated jewelry is inconsistent—it can be as thin as 0.5 microns or slightly thicker, but rarely approaches the 2.5-micron minimum required for vermeil. These characteristics mean that gold-plated pieces, while accessible and attractive initially, have inherent limitations: brass and copper bases can oxidize over time, potentially causing green or black discoloration on skin; the thin gold layer wears away more quickly with regular use; some people experience allergic reactions to the base metals; and the overall durability is significantly lower than precious metal jewelry. Additionally, because plated pieces combine different types of metals, they're difficult to recycle properly, making them less sustainable from an environmental perspective.

When we say our pieces are made with recycled 930 sterling silver, we're talking about something more than just a base metal. Silver purity is measured in numbers: 930 means 93% pure silver—higher than the standard 925 you'll find almost everywhere else. This translates to greater luminosity, a nobler metal, hypoallergenic properties, and lasting value. By working with recycled silver, we avoid extracting new resources from the earth: we reuse a material that can be recycled infinitely without losing quality, always with certified traceability and conflict-free guarantees. It's not just about reducing environmental impact—it's about choosing responsibility over convenience, even when it costs more.

"Gold vermeil" is a regulated term that means the base must be solid silver—never brass, never copper—covered with high-quality gold. We use 24K yellow gold, the purest and most luminous available, which keeps its natural warmth unlike 18K or 9K that contain more alloys and look paler. Here's what most brands won't tell you: the durability of gold plating depends entirely on thickness. Many pieces on the market use less than 1 micron, which wears off within weeks. At MILASAI, we apply between 2.5 and 4 microns—offering greater protection, prolonged shine, and a feeling of richness and solidity you can sense the moment you touch it. And if, after years of wear, the layer softens? It can always be re-plated to restore its original beauty.

Because we believe in creating jewelry, not accessories.
At MILASAI, we work exclusively with recycled 930 sterling silver—purer than the standard 925—as the foundation of every piece. When we apply gold, we use nothing less than authentic 24K in layers of 2.5 to 3 microns. This commitment to quality means our jewelry offers real durability that withstands daily wear for years, not weeks. The generous thickness of our gold plating maintains its lasting shine and luminosity far beyond what thinner layers can offer. Each piece holds enduring value—not just aesthetic beauty, but genuine material worth that you can feel in your hands. We prioritize respect for your skin: our hypoallergenic materials won't cause reactions or unsightly stains. And because we use certified recycled, conflict-free silver, every MILASAI piece reflects our environmental commitment to responsible sourcing and sustainable practices.

When choosing jewelry, there are essential questions that reveal true quality and craftsmanship.
Start by asking: What is the base metal?—understanding whether a piece is built on solid silver or brass and other alloys makes all the difference in longevity and skin compatibility. Inquire about the purity of the gold: is it 24K, 18K, or 14K? Higher purity means richer color and fewer allergens. The plating thickness measured in microns is equally critical—thicker layers simply last longer and maintain their brilliance. Ask if the materials are certified, ensuring traceability and responsible sourcing throughout the supply chain. Finally, confirm whether the piece can be re-plated—this is often a telltale sign of quality construction and lasting value. Transparency in these details signals a brand that genuinely values both the material and the person who wears it.

At MILASAI, each piece of jewelry is born with the intention to accompany you, not just adorn you. Every design is created by hand in Madrid, carefully modeled in wax, then cast with conflict-free certified silver and polished by skilled local artisans who understand that true craftsmanship cannot be rushed. These are pieces that breathe time, care, and intention—objects that carry weight beyond their physical form. They become part of your daily ritual, witnesses to your moments, companions to your evolution. They tell your story and hold the power to be passed down through generations, carrying memories and meaning that only deepen with time.

Because true jewelry isn't just beautiful: it has soul, value, and permanence.

Every MILASAI piece is crafted with certified recycled 930 sterling silver, ensuring the highest purity and quality while honoring our planet's resources. Our materials are infinitely recyclable, maintaining their integrity through endless cycles of transformation. We source only conflict-free metals, guaranteeing ethical practices throughout our supply chain. Each design is created and crafted in Madrid, supporting local artisans and preserving traditional techniques. Our entire process reflects a conscious artisan approach—slow, intentional, and respectful of both craft and environment.